(From Thursday 28 June 2012)
Today the majority of the Taste of Greenland crew left (Chris, Anders, Eskil, Adrian, Yuki, and Christine) leaving just four of us – Anne Mette, Esben, Finn and me. So last night to celebrate our final night together as a group of ten, we went to dinner at a place called Mamartut that had a buffet composed entirely of traditional Greenlandic ingredients. It was quite the spread! They served lam i tomat og kanel (cinnamon lamb meatball with tomato sauce), rødfisk sashimi (raw redfish), hellefisk sashimi (raw halibut), rype terrin (grouse terrine), sæl lever (seal liver), hval i rødvin (whale in a red wine sauce), gravad lam (pickled lamb leg), tørret lammekølle (dried lamb leg), røget laks (smoked salmon), røget hellfisk (smoked halibut), bagt hellefisk (baked halibut), sne hare i føldsauce (mountain hare in a cream sauce), moskus bov med æbler (muskox shoulder with apple), stenbidderrogn (lumpfish roe), marineret terret hval (home-dried whale), marineret amassatter (pickled amassatter), and mattaq i asparges og rejer (seal blubber with asparagus and shrimp).
Dessert was presumably less traditional (tiramisu), but we changed that by returning to Hotel Arctic to have Greenlandic Kaffe! It was extremely fun to just relax and laugh and be really loud! One by one a couple people turned in for the night, but some others and I stayed up until probably 3 o’clock in the morning! I would say that we were attempting to stay awake to watch the sun come up, but that’s not possible here above the Arctic Circle because the sun never goes down in the first place!
This evening I had the pleasant surprise of having dinner with Pia, Ulrik, and Aviaja. They are here in Ilulissat visiting Ulrik’s brother, Uffe, and his family, Sophie and Suluut. Also, Ulrik’s parents are in town, and the whole family will go to Eqi tomorrow! So I went over to Uffe and Sophie’s house for dinner; we had fried chicken, potatoes, tomatoes with Parmesan cheese, and cucumber salad with Tzatziki sauce. It was nice to meet more of the Bang family, to relax with everyone, and also to see Aviaja since she will go directly to Denmark from Ilulissat and will not return to Nuuk until the middle of August!
After dinner, Uffe took us midnight sun sailing around the UNESCO Kangia Ice Fjord. It was just beautiful to be out amidst the icebergs at this time of night. Even though the sun is up 24 hours a day, the light does change over time – during the midnight hours, the light is much softer and more yellow golden, and it makes the icebergs really sparkle. I kept thinking about how amazing it is that even with global warming and the sun shining twenty-four hours a day for about two months straight, the icebergs are still as big as they are. I can only imagine what they would be like without global warming! Pia, Ulrik, and Uffe say that they can see a change in the icebergs even from just a couple of years ago – that they were much taller and bigger! It’s extremely scary that in only a few years they can actually see the difference!
When I got back to Hotel Arctic, I found Esben and Finn filming a time lapse shot. I played tourist for a little bit to give them a shot of people in the patio rocking chairs and then called it a night!